Every triathlete aims for his optimal position on the bike. Being the longest part of a triathlon race, the bike leg is where the strong swimmers protect their lead and the slow swimmers try to catch up. If you’re doing long distance triathlons, you need to be as comfortable as you can be on the bike as the distance is not easy.

I have adjusted my bike position several times trying to find out what my optimal position was. After the bike leg of Camsur 70.3 this year, I felt some pains on my shoulders and triceps, and never had a doubt that my aero position was the culprit. But which part of my aero position was wrong, was my question.

3 weeks after Camsur, I tried to figure out what was wrong with my set-up. I was using a Vision Ski Bend aerobar and had my eyes fixated on that component as the reason for my upper body pain. I changed my stem from 90 to 110mm and felt some relief. I set my saddle back a bit and my position was better. I lowered my saddle height by 1cm and it was better. But one thing that never left me was my wrist pain and my poor elbow position.

Vision aerobars’ elbow pads were not adjustable. The length of the aerobar was just right, it was the pads that’s causing my problem. I wanted it to be more forward but couldn’t move it as it was not adjustable.

Then I remembered my old Profile Design T2+. I haven’t encountered any problems with it and wished I hadn’t sold it two years ago.

I bought one again and replaced my Vision.

The Profile Design T2+ is one of the best bang for the buck aerobars available in the market for the longest time. Tried and tested, more than half of the triathletes I know use this. According to Profile Design’s website, the following is the spec of this gem:

* Affordable, lightweight aluminum construction
* Aggressive position “S-Bend” extensions for time-trial or triathlon
* 6061-T6 aluminum extensions and forged brackets
* Injection molded F-19 length, width, and rotationally adjustable anatomic armrests
* Shot peened and anodized finish
* Dual cable routing hole

The S-Bend characteristic of the extension was great for my wrists. I normally relax my hands when on aero position and the ergonomics of the T2+ was perfect. No more wrist pains. One problem solved!

Next was the elbow pad adjustment. With my Vision aerobar, there was no way I could adjust the elbow pads. With the T2+, there are several:

- You can move it forward or backward
- You can tilt the elbow rest pads
- You can move the elbow pads closer together

My elbow pad problem was solved instantly, great!

Last adjustment made was with the length of the extensions. You can actually adjust the extension to your liking by loosening the screws that hold it with the clamp. After doing this, my aero position had never been better.

Took my bike out for a spin to test my new position and was able to stay on the aero position fro 90% of my 27K ride. No upper body pain, was faster and more comfortable.

Great product!

Conclusion:

There are tons of aerobars out there, but, while these aerobars have a lot more to offer, they cost a lot more as well. With the Profile Design T2+, the basic needs while in the aero position are addressed, plus a bit more. Adjustments for better aero position is easily done and the ergonomics of the extensions offer the triathlete comfort and speed during races and trainings. With a Php 4,000 tag price, one shouldn’t have any doubt as to which aerobar to clamp on his bike. Its a no brainer.

The Sweat Addict’s Rating ( Scale of 1-5 with 5 being the highest )

Cost: 4
Weight: 3
Ergonomics: 5
“Tweak”-ability: 5
Durability: 4

Total score: 21 out of 25

Highly recommended!

Deo P.

Tri United @ Whiter Rock, formerly known as the White Rock Triathlon or WRT, opened its registration to participants last September 15. The event is a Half Ironman Distance triathlon consisting of a 2K swim, 90K bike and a 20K run. Organized by Extribe ( same organizers as Camsur 70.3 ), Tri United will again reunite the toughest local triathletes in the country on November 13 at the White Rock beach resort in Zambales.

Registration details can be found here:

http://www.extribe.com.ph/main.php?sctn=3&indx=wrt

See you there!

Deo P.

There has been numerous inquiries, arguments and debates about which one is better between tubular and clincher wheelsets. I have been a clincher cyclist since the very time my butt made contact with a bicycle saddle, but, with my recent acquisition of a tubular wheelset, my views on the usage of both have since changed.

What are clincher and tubular wheelsets?

Clincher wheelsets are those which can accomodate an inner tube and an exterior tyre. Tubular wheelsets are those which can accomodate tubular tyres, tyres with its inner tube sewn into the exterior making it one tyre unit. Google the definitions for your better understanding. There are gazillions of websites that explains the difference in details. I will discuss in this post how each compares with another in terms of use. ;-)

Continental Gatorskin Tyre, my favorite clincher



Cost comparison

Tubulars are more expensive than clinchers. The cheapest tubular I found so far costs Php 1.2K. The cheapest clincher tyre set I purchased before was Php 650.00 for both exterior tyre and inner tube. On the high side, the most expensive clincher tyre I ever purchased was a Continental Gatorskin, at Php 1.5K each. So far, the tubular tyres mounted on my tubular wheelset costs Php 2.5K each, the Vittoria Corsa Evo CX.

Lance Armstrong's Trek Madone standing on tubular wheelsets

Ride Comparison

This is where the tubulars make hay against the clinchers. Being a clincher person for the longest time, I was used to how the clinchers roll. My pedaling power was developed by spinning clinchers on both the road and trainers.

However, upon experiencing how tubulars ride, I would never go back to racing with clinchers again. Training, probably, due to cost constraints, but not racing. Tubulars can take in more PSI ( pound per square inch ) than clinchers, making it less road resistant. The roll of tubulars are also smoother than clinchers and makes you go faster at the same power output that you have with clinchers. In my most recent ride, I was 1.5kph faster than my last ride with a clincher.

Fabian Cancellara working his way to winning one of the numerous time trials he has won with tubular tyres

Flatting Out and Changing Tyres

With the inner tubes sewn into the exterior tyres, tubulars have lesser chances of having pinch flats than clinchers. However, once you suffer a cut on your tubular, its the end of the show for you unless you brought with you an extra tube. I’d put the ratio of flatting between tubulars and clinchers at 6:10 though, with tubulars getting the upper hand.

Changing flats is easier as well with tubulars. Since you just need to take off the flat tubular and put on a new one, the whole process can only take less than 3 minutes. You just put the tubular on the rim, and that’s it. No need to glue it anymore especially on races, just be careful during cornering. With clinchers, you need to pull out the inner tube and put a new one back in then put the exterior back. You’ll end up 2 to 3 minutes slower with this.

Summary

I have only compared clinchers against tubulars in three aspects which ,to me, are the most important. The internet offers a lot of comparisons from other, more experienced cyclists and you can google them out if you want further, more detailed comparisons. I have compared these two wheelset based on my own standards which hopefully are at par with that of the others.

Below is how I’d score tubulars and clinchers in a scale of 1 to 5 with 5 being the highest:

Criteria Clincher Tubular

COST 5 3
RIDE 3 5
REPAIR/MAINTENANCE 3 5

Total 11 13

I will, no doubt, race with tubulars. If the cost is not too restricting, I would even train with tubulars. HOwever, given that I am not a pro and are without sponsors, I will stick to my plan of training with clinchers and racing with tubulars.

Deo P.

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